Food has been a great way of differentiating people throughout history, and the old Irani cafes were no exception. They were often a class and caste hierarchy hub, with sepia family portraits, bentwood chairs, and stained glass windows. But time has taken its toll, and these cafes have faded away, almost disappearing from the cityscape.
But now, thanks to the efforts of Shamil and Kavi Thakrar, there is a place to experience the magic once again – Dishoom. The London-based restaurant is a modern take on the Irani cafes that dotted Bombay in the ’60s, and it is a melange of cultures that seeks to make everyone feel at home. We caught up with the duo and got them to talk about their journey and vision.
Dishoom is the brainchild of the cousins who grew up in Bombay, where they spent their childhoods at their father’s Irani cafe. They later moved to London, and the story behind their concept is about wanting to bring a piece of Bombay to London and, thereby, the rest of the world. The interiors, service, music, and tableware are all conceived around this core idea, a narrative channeled into a cookbook.
The food at Dishoom is fantastic. It is a modern take on the classics but with a distinct and delicious Indian twist. While the chai is what you can’t miss, the kheer kulfi, paneer tikka, and samosa are also must-tries. But the show’s real star is the dessert – the masala ice cream and the gulab jamun are to die for.
As a part of his global event series, ‘Around the World with Roger Federer,’ the 20-time Grand Slam champion visited London and relished some lip-smacking Parsi-Indian food at this historic eatery in King’s Cross. He even stopped by to try their English breakfast with a desi twist.
The eight-time Wimbledon winner also took to social media to share pictures from his iconic club visit. The elated tennis legend was also at Wimbledon to cheer on British number one Katie Boulter, who made it through to the third round in the Women’s Singles after rain suspended play on Saturday. But perhaps the most poignant sighting was that of Kate Middleton, who arrived in the Royal Box with her two young children to watch a match on Court 18. She was led into the box by her husband, Prince William, and was greeted warmly by the crowd.